A daily walk at 6:00 am

It was the perfect setting for an early morning walk. The sun perched, ready to rise behind the far distant lake and rocks. Shards of light illuminated the leftover clouds from a midnight storm. Blooms lingered on desert willows. On the pavement, I was passing through a section of exquisitely detailed high-end southwestern homes.

Twenty feet away from me a full-grown jackrabbit paused and posed, silhouetted in front of an iron arch complete with some sort of desert vine, ears upright and transparent in the sunrise like the hoodoos of Bryce Canyon during a 6:00 am entrance to Queens Garden. I looked and longed beyond the rabbit to the vanishing point far, far away in lake and rocks. And I had no camera. I have long ceased to carry it in my own neighborhood. What could possibly be different one day to the next?

Unexpectedly, a much-desired, long Saturday hike

I worked on Saturday. It was not my sixth day of work because I did have actual Fourth of July off.

I seized an opportunity to take our customer service specialist, Brandice, and make a Cannonville / Escalante delivery and introduce her around. For efficiency and beauty, we took Cottonwood Canyon Road full-well knowing we would probably need to return via the highway due to gathering clouds.

It rained while we were in Escalante. But when we returned through Cannonville, the skies, ground and roadways were dry and there was a sunny path of blue sky down Cottonwood Canyon. Knowing from experience it would put us home 40 minutes earlier, we took it.

To give some perspective, Google says it is 160 miles Page to Cannonville via the paved highway and 46 miles via Cottonwood Canyon – albeit slow going and winding dirt road.

We exited the paved road south of Cannonville at Kodachrome State Park and proceeded 18 more miles to pass the turnoff for Grosvenor Arch. So far, so good. A couple raindrops hit the windshield. Bear in mind, we are already more than 20 miles in for a trip we believe is 46 slow miles – oh wait – now they tell me it is 56 miles – from Grosvenor to highway 89. Anyway, we went UP the washboardy hills and UP more washboardy hills and then descended into an area nick-named “Candyland” because of the colorful rock formations. It was beautiful. But then, the descent down the slightly rained on slope was slick. Moreover, it stuck to the new tires like clay, making them perform like bald tires. We slid sideways in the 15 – passenger van. There was a slight but muddy ravine on our right. Enough! We knew we would have to stop and wait this out. Typically the road dries out fast – by the next day. It was six pm. We were expected home.

When it stopped raining, I climbed to the top of the nearest steep and muddy hill until I got one bar of cell service. I texted the boss. No immediate answer. I called the boss. He picked up on the fourth ring. Can you back up north? He asked. No. The dark rain clouds had now cut us off behind.

I’d love to say I’ll be there in 90 minutes, he said, but I am at Antelope Point (ten miles the other side of town) and I’ll have to go by home and get my rescue equipment.

Can you call Brandice’s husband and let him know? I asked. Affirmative. Text me the phone number.

Brandice shouted me the number from the distant van. I slid back down the hill and we enjoyed a nice tailgate repast of veggies, fruit and guac. I hiked back up the hill to see if there were further messages. Nada. But, the road looked pretty good from that vantage point. While I was hiking, Brandice had been busy peeling mud from the tires with a sharp rock. We began inching our way down the road in 200-yard segments. Here is how it worked:

I ran ahead to reconnoiter and then signal Brandice forward to a specific place. As she drew near, I ran ahead once more to see if all was safe around the corner. In this way, we avoided sinkholes and slippery narrow slopes. Sometimes we waited 15 or 20 minutes for the road to dry out.

Meanwhile, the boss texted his location. He was now on the dirt road. His pathway was dry. For several miles. Then he hit the muddy, fish-tailing mid-section.

By the time the Martins came over the hill we had made a few miles progress in the van. Yes. Martin plural. When the boss Martin met us, who should pop out his passenger door but Martin the husband of Brandice? Two shovels and a garden hoe made quick work of clay removal from the tires.

Being the grown-up boy scout, WFR and general all around MacGyver that he is, the boss leap-frogged van and Trooper through the sketchy places while I picked up slack on the passable. We made it home by 10:00 pm.

Aside from the embarrassment of having to call for help, I had a fabulous adventure in a beautiful place. You see, the clouds and rain made it a glorious temperature for hiking – up the hill for a cell signal and up and down the road for blazing a trail – in one of the most beautiful places of this region.

Unexpectedly, I got my much-desired, long Saturday hike.

But, still and all, I have a new rule for myself: No dirt road driving when there is rain anywhere in the state. – – Until we get knobbier tires on the van.

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My MacBook Smells Like Campfire

My MacBook Pro smells a little like a campfire. Proof positive of a working adventure.

I had resolved not to leave town on a holiday weekend – not even go into town to the office if I could help it. Traffic is brutal in recreation areas during the busy season. There is such a passing frenzy on two-lane highways. Your odds of a head on collision – or rolling your car off-road to avoid one- are extremely high.

I don’t need that kind of stress. Nevertheless, as Memorial Day approached, I realized I would be alone. I am accustomed to parades and car shows, and baseball, and family cookouts on Memorial Day.

Now solitude is one of my comforts, but I also love to laugh. Laughter usually takes two. My family and best friends are in Colorado. My work friends have seen more than enough of me this past week. Besides, holidays for them mean tossing shots and swinging drunk in the backyard. As much as I enjoy a good swing set, drunkenness is not my forte.

As it turned out, instead of shots, I had marshmallows toasted over an open fire, watermelon toted in a cooler, hotdogs roasted on my pocket stove, and great conversation.

I got to see my daughter looking extremely well in borrowed clothes, sporting a river tan on her knees and making lovely music with mandolin and voice. Making mature, well-honed, performance-ready music around a campfire – while I made an office of picnic table, cell-phone and laptop.

After she played through a mini-repertoire of songs ranging from Johnny Cash through Amazing Grace and some cutting edge originals, she obligingly chopped and split our neighbors’ wood tender. They shared their fire. We enjoyed marshmallows, and played games with those three neighbors as the embers died.

We broke camp the next morning and headed back through that persistently impatient traffic to work day worlds. In my workday world I will design and buy merchandise and insist on customer service that insures visitors have a great outdoor experience. In her world, she will fearlessly guide wanderers down river on a raft; or lead strangers into deeper spirituality through her music.

Have I said recently that I raise young musicians? They are all grown up now and each responsible and laudable in his or her own right for musical expertise. I can no longer take credit for their virtuosity. What a joy to know that each of my children travels through life making substantive music; all the while keeping body and shelter viable through creative endeavor.

Don’t quit on your travel – Keep putting one foot in front of the other

Don’t quit on your enjoyment of Nature – Keep loving the great outdoor activities

Don’t quit your day job – You need it to fund the activities you love

And don’t quit on your music!

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A Walk at 5:00 am

Wylie Coyote crosses your paved path on a furtive sunrise mission. Bushes previously bearing every semblance to willows have burst into orchid–like bloom. A light desert perfume fills the air. And the birds, the birds each in their native language are calling, screaming, whooping and chortling at the top of their lungs. One last cool breeze of late spring causes you to raise your thin hoodie to cover neck and ears. The sun peeps over a barren movie set laden with monoliths and monuments and you, yourself, cast a long, very long shadow.

 

What is Real?

She lounged on one queen-size bed in the rustic motel room and stared at the ceiling. “Tomorrow we go back to the real world,” she sighed.

“What is real?” I said, echoing the plaintive question of the velveteen rabbit. For 48 hours we had hiked in nature. Ten miles on Saturday. Ten miles again on Sunday. Not bad for two women over 60. Was that not real? Was it not intensely real that first day when I summited the canyon toward the ruin, feeling famished and hungry and ready to break into my lunch in the shadow of ancient dwellings, only to turn and see that she had fallen 50 yards behind; short of breath, cold and clammy and at the same time hot and sweaty. She sat to rest and I had nothing to offer her but water – which she also carried. We soaked a bandana and mopped her face. That was real. So real that we altered our plans for the next day to take a less strenuous – but equally long-trail.

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Was it not real thrashing through the undergrowth, hair and glasses and arms snagged in unwelcoming branches, just to find a secluded place to relieve myself? Earthy smells. Musty leaves, damp creek beds, cottonwoods, pinyon pines and junipers. These are not real? Blue skies and biting winds and being thankful for a hiking partner because there are places in Bullet Canyon you simply cannot boost yourself when you are 5’3” or even 5’7.”

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“Is this the real world, or is it fantasy?” For two days we saw no one but the occasional avid hiker. For each other we acted as human hand rails, pushed, pulled and otherwise offered a hand; shuttled back packs, assisted in withdrawing snacks from top zippered compartments and intentionally went looking for solitude and beauty.

BEAR'S EARS - THE EARS THEMSELVES. March, 2017
BEAR’S EARS – THE EARS THEMSELVES. March, 2017

Cedar Mesa, The Bears Ears; this was the real world for the ancient ones. The place they raised their children, ground their food, set a look-out, struggled each day to provide and survive. And the struggle was real. Yet, for us, it is a place of restoration – her favorite place to get away on vacation.

Tomorrow we go back to the real world. Out of necessity we spend our days at the office. In the city. In a place where we struggle each day to provide and survive. We set a lookout for intruders and competitors. We perceive our real world as the world of a more advanced civilization, yet when we get away we escape to a more primitive world.

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Two real worlds with the challenge of survival and provision and protection in common, is there not more to ponder? Is it a real world without Nature? Without Art? Without Music? Without relationships? We go beyond mere survival.

We build. We communicate. We make art. A very real world, indeed!

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The Nature Fix

What could be better than a new book to read? The Nature Fix, by Florence Williams, has fallen into my hands. The subtitle is alluring: Why Nature Makes Us Happier, Healthier, and More Creative.

Who would not want to be happier, healthier, and more creative?

I have long felt conflicted about my love for music and my love for hiking in the great outdoors. Every piano I see; I long to play. Every beautiful nature spot I pass; I long to hike. This conflicted feeling often starts when I introduce myself – or write a bio: If there is anything that comes close to matching Cherry’s passion for music and love for her piano, it is the Colorado Rocky Mountain High that comes from hiking Colorado’s higher elevations. Or do I mean: If there is anything Cherry Odelberg enjoys more than playing piano, it is hiking in the great outdoors.

Truth is, it is hard to have one without the other for me. That’s why my favorite piano about town is in Tropic UT. It is certainly not the tuning or the condition of the piano that makes it my favorite, oh no. I have had the satisfying privilege of playing a perfectly tuned, 9-foot Steinway in a recording studio in Dallas TX. The pianos about town in Ft. Collins are well maintained and welcoming, the art murals exquisite. It is not the zebra stripe painting that draws me to the dilapidated spinet in Tropic, UT. It is the proximity of this piano. It is the fact that I can hike in Bryce Canyon and enjoy a round of piano performance all in the same morning – or afternoon.

So yes, sometimes I feel conflicted when I choose a hike over a session at the piano. But can I really have one without the other?

I am in league with musical greatness when I love the great outdoors. Beethoven is said to have hugged a linden tree. It is that same consummate composer who reflected, “The woods, the trees and the rocks give man the resonance he needs.”

Ah Beethoven, yes they do. Yes they do.

 

And I Will Rest in Peace

Sun warmed the trailhead and I discussed with myself whether to take my down jacket. The name of the destination – Mossy Cave – evoked a feeling of coolness. It was not yet mid-March. I left the down behind and donned my paper-thin athletic jacket pulled from my daypack. Fifty strides ahead, mounds of snow lay in the shadows. Half mile brought me to a frozen waterfall. The sun still shone and Nature was gloriously beautiful. I was moderately high – in elevation. I began to think of dying.

You see, my bucket list consists primarily of visiting as many National Parks, Monuments and other naturally beautiful spots as possible – with a hearty helping of music and ethnic food, and love thrown in along the way. The grand finale item of my bucket list states: Die in a beautiful place. Therefore, I am careful not to linger long in barren places. One never knows the day or hour. The litmus test of the beauty of any place becomes, “Am I content to die here?”

The entirety of Highway 12 is a scenic byway. Highway 12 cuts right through a corner of Bryce Canyon; a large chunk of the Kaiparowits and Canyons districts of Grand Staircase-Escalante; and ends only after threading its way through Capitol Reef. I have been eyeing a hike in the Bryce Canyon corner of Highway 12 for an entire year. Today, with perfect timing, I discovered a vacant parking space at the trailhead.

Hiking never ceases to make me grateful to be alive, thankful for my life. To hike in warm sun, beneath blue skies makes me fall in love again – with Nature and Life. When you love Nature, Nature loves you back. I hugged a tree, just because it smelled so good. It was a Ponderosa. Essence of vanilla sap was my companion for the rest of the day. Every bend in the trail, every switchback felt like an old friend. My internal compass experienced déjà vu, evoked memories of other trails with this exact angle.

Yes, Nature loves me back, but hiking does not stave off the yearning and longing. I longed to lay myself down on slickrock and bake in the sun, to roll in the grasses and shrubs, to be wrapped up in sandstone dirt and pine needles. And that is why I know; when my time comes and those humans who love me scatter my ashes in a beautiful place; I will rest in peace.

Bridge to Mossy Cave, Bryce Canyon
Bridge to Mossy Cave, Bryce Canyon
Snowmelt feeds a waterfall
Snowmelt feeds a waterfall
Hoodoos have arches too
Hoodoos have arches too

Landscape from a Working Woman’s Perspective; My Favorite Commute

My favorite work commute is Cottonwood Canyon. Ostensibly I came to Page, Arizona to work as a buyer and retail manager, but my underlying motive was to move a bit further down the Colorado River – to see ever more of the great outdoors and sandstone terrain. I knew the job would require a healthy amount of travel, calling on and merchandising seven small non-profit bookstores spread across southern Utah and Northern Arizona. The imperative inherent in the job description was to get to know the landscape of the public lands within my jurisdiction of Glen Canyon Natural History Association. Once I understood the area, I would design and order merchandise that interpreted the landscape; a mug here, a T-shirt there, all merchandise to help educate, tangible trinkets to take home as talismans, memory triggers of time spent in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area or Grand Staircase Escalante.

My business route takes me on a sweeping grand circle of sorts. Down past Navajo Bridge, Lee’s Ferry, Lonely Dell Ranch; Up Highway 89A to Kanab; passing turnoffs to North Rim of the Grand Canyon and Pipe Spring; Highway 89 past the turnoffs to Zion and Cedar Breaks; Across Highway 12 past Bryce Canyon; several stops within Grand Staircase Escalante and through Capitol Reef, a detour to Bullfrog and Hall’s Crossing; Highway 90 with Natural Bridges in view as well as the buttes that are the Bears Ears; possibly 261 through Cedar Mesa and down the Moki Dugway to 191; continuing on Highway 191 to join Highways 163 and 160; and back to Page. It takes several days to drive this loop, more than a week if I called on all the stores in one trip.  I prefer smaller loops. Along this route there are numerous opportunities to choose other back roads and lessor known shortcuts.

My favorite work commute is Cottonwood Canyon. When you take Cottonwood Canyon you experience a variety of colors and geological features. You get out and away from the paved road and any traffic. You can usually go there in a regular car (not so if it is raining or has recently been raining).

All the colors of a commute up Cottonwood Canyon
All the colors of a commute up Cottonwood Canyon

There is no early morning drive I like better than that dirt and gravel road. It gets me to Cannonville 40 minutes quicker than taking the paved route through Kanab and it gives me a panorama of beauty, a kaleidoscope of ever-changing light and colors of sandstone.

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Grovesner Arch soon after sunrise

If you have the luxury of a day off rather than a business commute, several beautiful trailheads are accessed along the way and there is even a written guide to the Geology of Cottonwood Canyon to interpret the rock layers you see. Cottonwood Narrows is a spectacular little hike that can be done in minutes short of an hour if you have a car waiting at the opposite trailhead. If not, double your time and hike back the way you came in, or walk back to your car on the dirt road. On your hike you will enjoy both shadow and sunshine, a little bit of narrow slot canyon, and you might even see a few small arches in the rock walls towering to either side.

Hiking in The Narrows of Cottonwood Canyon
Hiking in The Narrows of Cottonwood Canyon

 

 

Two headlamps is always a good idea

4:48 pm

Without slacking my pace I turned and headed back up the wash the way I had come. I was at least an hour out from the car and the sun would set before six. Twenty-five minutes later I arrived at the spot where I first said, “Just one more bend, I’ll just go around one more bend and see what’s up ahead. We wouldn’t want to turn back now, Self, when there might be a lake inlet just around the bend.”

It was Super Hike Sunday and I started my hike late, very late, after lunching with friends. Once I circumvented the white pothole pour-off via the mini-talus slopes, I set off at a good clip down the level wash that is Wire Grass Trail. I wanted to hike until I saw something beautiful, until I felt good, until I was winded, until I no longer felt fat from lunch and the many desserts I have comforted myself with this week.

I did see something beautiful. An arch. I interrupted my momentum only long enough to take a picture. More beauty. I wanted more. I began to feel good again. I never did get winded so I kept on, chasing the sunlight and then chasing the shadow, always, always aware of where the sun was on the horizon.

At 5:58 pm  on my return trip I reached the slope where I first clocked the sun at 3:45 pm to gauge if I really had time to do the hike. That was the moment I realized I needed two headlamps. I know, I know, one should be enough, but I have been using my headlamp for early morning walks and I left it setting on the table when I shouldered my daypack; that daypack where the headlamp should -and usually does-reside. Knowing that it is still too early in the year to get much daylight after 4:00 pm, I thought to turn back near the beginning of the trailhead when I first realized my headlamp was home in the kitchen. But I also knew I carried a small flashlight tucked into the first aid kit.

6:03 pm said my cell phone when I arrived at the car. The sun was down, yet still remained the daylight. Whew! It’s not that I am afraid of the dark, I’m just afraid of feeling helpless, afraid of causing someone the bother of coming to find me. I am feeling fine. My toes are sore. My biceps ache from swinging my hiking poles, but I am not winded. It’s going to be a great spring for hiking! For putting one foot in front of the other; for not slackening my pace. How about you?

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I have some explaining to do…

I walked over to the liquor store today to post some letters and when I came out the door and headed toward home, the lake water was so blue it called to me. So I took a big sip from my bottle, and seeing there were no cows on the other side today; crawled through the fence onto National Park System property. Actually, I am not quite sure if I was hiking on NPS managed land or ranchland as I made my way toward the lake, but I have a park pass so I figure I am legal.  I am only about a mile from Lake Powell as the crow flies. As often happens in Page, the lines are a little blurred.

Only one paragraph in and if you know me at all, I bet I have some explaining to do.

Page Arizona has no residential door-to-door mail delivery, nor rural routes. Everyone has a PO box. I live in an upscale community about 9 miles north of Page. The two communities share the same zip code. We are each assigned a post office box. The Greenehaven boxes are housed in the last convenience store before the highway enters Utah. And it so happens; being this convenience store is in close proximity to Lake Powell and Lone Rock, and Lone Rock is a location famous for spring breaks and arrests; the most convenient item the store-turned-post office panders is liquor.

I had planned to return straight home and write but the weather was delightful. A light spring breeze was blowing. Birds were chirping. I was prepared with my water bottle and cell-phone because I had walked to the mart. The lake was beckoning me. The water was blue, Air Force blue. And so I crawled through the fence.

Crawled through the fence? Yes. Without ripping my shirt or my pants on the barbed wire. When I first got to Page I was afraid to do this so I spent my time hiking on roads; paved, gravel, dirt; seeing nothing but dust and hearing nothing but off-road vehicles. Over the months I found that National Recreation Areas are managed differently than National Parks. Cattle still graze here. I have met the grazing ranger for the Park Service. Plus, BLM rangers basically say, “This land is your land. Go make your own trail. Be sure and take a map.”

Today, I hiked about a mile cross-desert toward the lake. I meandered along the rim of an arroyo turned slot canyon. I saw no cattle, but bovine hoof-prints were fresh – as were coyote, rabbit, and assorted rodent prints. I saw two tiny lizards scurrying to re-provision on the opportune sunny day.

On the way back, it was warm and I rolled up my pant legs, wishing I had worn zip-offs and sandals rather than skinny leg levis and smart wool socks. Then it was hot and I removed my shirt, tied it around my waist and hiked on in my short-sleeve T-shirt. Imagine that, so warm on February 3 that I am sweaty and will need another shower when I get home.

Arriving at the fence once again, I turned around and looked at the lake. The water now appeared shimmering pearl gray. You can almost tell what time of day it is – or what season – by the shade of blue reflected in the water.

It took less than two hours, and I have benefitted greatly by crawling through a fence and putting one foot in front of the other. Did you remember to get outside today?

The Lone Rock / Wahweep area of Lake Powell looking up lake and toward Navajo Mountain in the distance
The Lone Rock / Wahweap area of Lake Powell looking uplake and toward Navajo Mountain in the distance

Putting One Foot in Front of the Other, Hiking for Life!